Great pattern fit explains how to buy and use patterns.  Specific measurements are included to help you choose the best fitting pattern.

GREAT PATTERN FIT IS OBTAINED BY THE FOLLOWING:

Take accurate measurements of vital areas of the body regularly.  Choose a pattern with the desired fit that is most flattering.  Know your body type and select the appropriate size.

 

Great pattern fit did not develop early.  Ready to wear clothing for women was not available nor affordable until around the 1880’s.  In the 1850’s Godey’s Lady’s Book offered a full-size pattern, but it only came in one size and had to be fitted individually.

During the Civil War, Ebenezer Butterick designed the tissue paper pattern.  The Butterick family initially did the cutting and folding of the patterns.  They began mass producing in 1866 in New York.  James McCall started producing women’s patterns not long after.   Women were finally able to achieve a great pattern fit.  Interestingly enough the tissue paper used is the lightest and thinnest paper made.  500 sheets only weights 7.5 lbs.

 

One of the major reasons for sewing is to achieve a great fit.  The pattern companies try to include fitting help in their patterns. This pattern fitting help can be found on the pattern envelope and the pattern pieces. 

 

For example, a great pattern fit is indicated on the back of the pattern envelope by  showing some drawings of the front and back of the garment.  These drawings show if there are darts or fitted seams that fit close to the body or pleats and gathers that give a more relaxed fit.  Look for terms such as loosely fitted, which means relaxed fit or closely fitted, indicating a close to the body fit.

 

To have a great pattern fit you must take accurate measurements.  There are five  essential measurements

HIGH BUST- measure around body high under arms, across widest part of  back and above full bust
BUST - measure over fullest part of bust, keeping tape straight
WAIST - mark natural waist position by tying a thin elastic around waist and measure
HIPS - measure 7” to 9” inches below natural waist
BACK WAIST LENGTH - measure from the bone at the base of the neck down to the waistline  elastic

The next step to get a great pattern fit is to first compare the bust and the high bust measurement.  If there is a 2” or more difference use the high bust measurement to choose a pattern.  Most of the time measurements fall

between two pattern sizes, in which case choose the smaller one.  This way you’ll get a better fit at the neckline, shoulders and armholes.

 

A great pattern fit also needs to take into consideration figure types.  Chose one of the following figure types.

 

YOUNG JUNIOR TEEN - 5’1 to 5’3 teen or preteen figure.  Waistline is larger in proportion to bust.
JUNIOR PETITE - 5’ to 5’1, shorter figure with shorter figure and smaller body build with shorter back waist length than junior.
JUNIOR - 5’4 to 5’5, slightly shorter in height and back waist then a Miss.
MISS PETITE - 5’2 to 5’4, shorter figure with a shorter back waist and slightly larger waist than a Miss.
MISS - 5’5 to 5’6  Considered the average figure.
HALF SIZE - 5’2 to 5’3,  Shoulders are narrower than miss petite.Waist is larger in proportion to bust than a woman.
WOMAN - 5’5 to 5’6,same height as Miss, but larger and more fully mature making all other measurements larger.

 

Front of Pattern 

The front of the pattern envelope will show the size and figure type.  One size or several sizes can be in a pattern.  This will be indicated on the front as well.  Multi-sized patterns will show the three sizes or more and will include cutting lines for all sizes indicated.

 

Now select a great fitting pattern by comparing your measurements to those on the back of the pattern envelope.

Record your measurements and keep them current.  Don’t assume just because you haven’t gained weight your measurements will remain the same.  It’s better to be safe than sorry.   Great pattern fit is worth every inch.

 
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